I recently received a thought-provoking question from a couple new to Plymouth: What were my favorite places in town? Spaces or locations that inspire, heal, or excite?
The email came on the heels of a meeting with new resident and Plymouth Independent correspondent Peter Zheutlin, who was also curious about the places I love the most. I realized my list was extensive – and worth sharing not only with newcomers but “townies” who sometimes take our amazing home for granted. Here’s my list:
Burial Hill
Located behind the downtown buildings on the west side of Main Street, Burial Hill could not be more historic. It is one of the oldest cemeteries in the country, and contains the town’s earliest non-Indigenous graves, including several Pilgrims. It is also the original home of the 1621 Pilgrim’s Fort. That location is designated by a stone marker.
What makes it one of my favorite places is the same reason the Pilgrims chose it for their fort: the commanding view. From the top of Burial Hill, the views stretch from Duxbury in the north across the harbor to Manomet Point to the south. You can see across the bay to Provincetown on most clear days. The spring and fall are especially lovely.
Mayflower Meeting House/ First Parish Church
Situated at the head of Town Square at the base of Burial Hill stands the big stone church – aka the Mayflower Meeting House. Destined to be a museum for the Society of Mayflower Descendants, it’s also the spiritual home for the congregants of First Parish Church, who trace their roots back to 1606.
The upper level houses a sanctuary that leaves me spellbound. Dominated by quarter-sawn oak hammer beam roof trusses, it is probably one of the finest examples of the arts and crafts movement in an ecclesiastical building. Services are typically held on Sundays at 10 a.m., but the congregation begins arriving around 9:30 for quiet contemplation before the service. It’s a great time to sneak in and enjoy the majesty of the place.
Central atrium at Town Hall
Standing proud on Court Street is the 1820 Courthouse that now forms a portion of Plymouth’s Town Hall. The central atrium – featuring two stories of a glass wall and a marble staircase saved and rebuilt from a previous addition – connects the 1820 Courthouse with the newer portion of the building. I often find myself traveling through the atrium on my way to an early meeting. There is something about the morning light in the atrium in the spring that makes it a special place. The same can be said in the fall when there is a coolness in the air, and you step into this warm space. I recommend grabbing a coffee and enjoying a break early in the morning. Despite being a major pedestrian connection point in the building, it can be peacefully quiet.
Plymouth Center for the Arts
I drone on too much about this wonderful building. So rather than repeating myself, I recommend my earlier column: “From old books to new art work.”
Cordage Mill
Officially addressed as 10 Cordage Park Circle, it’s the distinctive mill building with the tower at Cordage Park. Once part of the vast Plymouth Cordage Company complex, the building has been subdivided into multiple office suites. It’s not so much the space that excites me but, believe it or not, it’s the smell. Years of machinery oils and greases have permeated the floors, giving the building a scent that betrays its original purpose.
Every time I enter the building (usually for a doctor’s appointment) it’s the first thing I notice. There’s something comforting about it to me, perhaps because I know some of my relatives worked there long enough to become accustomed to the odor. Take some time to walk the halls of this former industrial space, visit the museum, have a snack at the small cafe, and breathe in the wonderful smell that put Plymouth on the map for rope production.
The Bartlett Room, Plymouth Public Library
From the time the library was built on South Street, the Bartlett Room has always been a special place for me. Located on the second floor, and staffed to protect the collection, the room is fairly nondescript, but what’s in there makes it a favorite. It’s my go-to spot for research for articles and family history and contains material that is all things Plymouth.
It’s not unusual for me to begin research on one topic and find myself distracted and reading material unrelated to anything I was looking for. All too often what I plan to accomplish in a half hour turns into more than two hours. I want folks to know about this place but just don’t go when I’m there – I like the solace.
120-132 Summer St., downtown Plymouth
This collection of homes on the south side of Summer Street has everything I hold dear. With construction dates ranging from 1792 to 1842, these homes represent textbook examples of the Cape Cod building form, including the half Cape, the three-quarter Cape, the full Cape, and a double Cape. It makes this architect joyful.
Long Beach, Warren Avenue
Say what you will about restricted vehicle access and draconian changes, there is absolutely nothing preventing anyone physically able from walking the six-mile round trip out to the Point and back. Best done at low tide in any season, I’ve done it every month by myself, with family, or a group of friends. During the longest days of summer, it’s best to start around 6 p.m. (free parking, too), so you’re walking back and catching an amazing sunset. October is perfect with a late morning start. During the winter months it’s still a treat if you are bundled up; right after a major storm is a perfect time to search for treasures. It’s the best therapy for the soul and better than the gym.
Swan Bridge, Sandwich Road, Chiltonville
Located just south of the four-way intersection of Jordan, Clifford, and Sandwich roads on Old Sandwich Road is the rugged stone bridge crossing Shingle Brook. The bridge was constructed by Eben Jordan (of Jordan Marsh fame) to access his Gilded Age mansion further south on Old Sandwich Road. The bridge rises a couple of feet above the road and is capped with smooth stones.
It’s an amazing place to sit and take in the surrounding fields, ponds and the brook slowly making its way to the harbor. You might see swans if you are lucky. It’s best in the fall when it’s a blaze of color. Just a word of caution: there is nowhere to park so it’s best to plan on taking a bike or count on a long walk. The reward is worth the journey.
Bramhall’s Country Store, 2 Sandwich Road
Bramhall’s is one of my happy places. Housed in a building built in 1828 by the Bramhall family, what is now an eclectic food store has served the heart of the Chiltonville community for generations. The building has been used a carpenter barn, post office, and cobbler shop.
Wedge Bramhall re-opened the store in 1980 with his mom Ginny as a go-to spot for Ben & Jerry’s ice cream. live lobsters, fresh corn on the cob, and penny candy. Carrying on the tradition after Wedge died, his wife Jamie, and children Ben and Sally now offer even more delicious stuff, including lobster rolls, fresh local produce, and home-grown flowers. In summer, the grounds are crowded, especially with children running about covered in melting ice cream. Fall finds the grounds scattered with hundreds of pumpkins and gourds for sale.
It’s a place my daughter has known since birth, a stop made after a day at the beach, and a place where the community gathers to discuss local events under the massive beach tree that dominates the grounds. The store is still closed for winter but will open soon for the 2025 season. Thank God for that. It’s been a long five months since my last coffee frappe.
These places have shaped my life for the last 60-plus years (yikes!) here in Plymouth. I can’t imagine life without them, and I hope they bring the same joy for you. And if there’s someplace else in Plymouth you love, don’t hesitate to drop me a line. Perhaps I can share some of them in a future column.
Architect Bill Fornaciari is a lifelong resident of Plymouth (except for a three-year adventure as a young man out west) and the owner of BF Architects in Plymouth. His firm specializes in residential work and historic preservation. Have a question or idea for this column? Email Bill at billfornaciari@gmail.com.